Day 3 - Bodenaya to Campiello - 24.5 kms

Hola amigos, Como estas? 

As anticipated, we had a lovely night at Alejandro's refugio. Delicious dinner and a pretty good night's sleep, considering the number of people in close proximity - mostly men, and mostly Spanish and French. So far there are few women on the Primitivo, a couple of French, one Italian and one from Taiwan. And so far I am the only native English speaker and, like Chemin du Puy, few people have more than a smattering of English. If it weren't for Dominique, perhaps it would be a silent pilgrimage for me!  

True to his word, Alejandro 'woke' us at 7 (the time the group had agreed over dinner) with a gentle Ave Maria filtering through the albergue. After desayuno, we set out at 7.45, again in the dark as you can see from the first photo. The morning was cool but a glorious sunny day meant that by late morning I was in 'pants off' mode for the first time. No cause for alarm. Those who have followed my earlier camino blogs will know this just means the bottoms of the zip off pants were zipped off. 

The walking felt easy today, even the inevitable afternoon climb. My pack is feeling more comfortable and my bruised hip bones seem to have settled down with the magic zen spray. Just as well, as tomorrow will be the most strenuous day so far. As we walked, I couldn't help but notice we are now surrounded by mountains. That can only mean one thing. 

My guidebook for the Primitivo provides suggested stages and grades each day with the degree of difficulty of the terrain. Like the Chemin du Puy, and unlike the Camino Frances, there are few towns and villages along The Way and, therefore, few options for accommodation. When I walked the Camino Frances in 2011, and when Jill and I walked in 2013, we didn't often follow the stages in the guidebook - there were usually quite a few options so we could plan our own Way. There was a delightful freedom in that. But on the Primitivo, so far we have followed the stages in my book. The first day from Oviedo was rated a 3 (out of 5). Yesterday was a 4, and today again a 3. The next two days are rated 5. Yikes. 

So I'll 'see you on the other side' and let you know how I get on. In the meantime, special hi to Pat and George, Mandi, Helen C, Helen (Mum), Jan, Audrey, Sheryl and Mandi. It was lovely to hear from you all and receive your good wishes. Mandi, the photo of the Golden Retriever is for you and Amanda!  

Hasta luego, a bientot. 

J x

PS. A rare front on photo of Dominique. He seems incapable of smiling for the camera. Is this a male thing? Je ne sais pas, mais je pense - oui!